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The Fashion Note Of Milan

Johnny WANG 2017-03-01 15:17

There is enthusiastic fashion media everywhere around Milan. This fashion week (Spring/Summer) took eclectic cues from far-flung sources including the roaring 80s, minimalism, and Victorian gothic pop style. 

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The Interpretation

The show is undoubtedly the centre of fashion week. There’s a very different feeling when watching the show live compared to on the Internet. It is not just because of the closeness, it also depends on the people you see at the show. Before the show starts, looking for seats is also an interesting aspect of the show. When the music starts, you will get into the mood right away.  

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Once I entered the fashion week area and the agent of the Chinese media helped me find my seat. The seat arrangement for Chinese was on the right side of the catwalk entrance. It seemed like it was the worst place to sit, but two Chinese stars and the editing director of Chinese edition VOGUE were sitting with us in the same area. They were previewing the new products ahead of time. The Chinese media workers in Milan Fashion Week did not exchange the seats in the entire show. The Western media workers were sitting in the centre of the middle row. The Western bloggers were sitting opposite direction of the corresponding position or sitting closer to the cameraman, the purpose is to separate clearly the editors from the stars. 

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From Left: Christiano Burani, Ermanno Scervino and Gabriele Colangelo

However, no matter how the rules are about this industry, fashionistas can’t help but get giddy when a new collection is released. They like to see the pursuit of the designers of the fashion and real life. Gabriele Colangelo’s new spring and summer series amazed us with all kinds of high quality fabrics fusing a technique of deconstruction… creating an almost 3D visual effect. It created an internal and modern elegant beauty. We couldn’t help but be attracted by Ermanno Scervino’s pieces, the core value of which is ‘Beauty is higher and more than anything else.’ This year’s spring and summer series is a mix of the past, present and future romantic and graceful characteristic. In the show, there were beautiful models with soft-side braids, ruddy cheeks, and pretty thin lips. They were wearing organza, thin veil, and suits with white lace.

The Backstage Experience

Compared to the public show, the backstage and the surrounding work link of the fashion week is the place where the magic happens. Among them, Diesel Black Gold is worth mentioning. Their shows are always in the morning. This time, the venue was in a construction site of Milan (Via Vlateellina). There was a terrible traffic jam that day. I saw models who were dressed in off-white, nude, and black colours, posing in front of a photographer in his 50s or 60s. It looked all very slick and well coordinated. The photographer kept saying “Look here; turn around; smile; turn left; turn right!” It is a part of the fashion week album. This part is about the backstage and atmosphere. The preparation of the show is always tight. Ten minutes before the show starts, makeup girls still buzz to and fro to cover all the small flaws on the models’ legs and arms. 

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 There are lots of backstage staff and every specific job has its function. “The level of the hairstylist industry is very clear. Stylists are comparable to a cast member. They usually give us tasks at the last minute, you have no chance to communicate or get close to the models beforehand. According to the respective positions and leadership, we will be arranged to a specific position. For now, I am not a top hairstylist of this industry,” said a hairstylist who works for big shows, such as Ermanno Scervino, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Bottega Venetta. 

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The details of runway and backstage of Gucci

The good thing about being backstage is not only can you take quick photos of the relaxing models, but also can observe the their makeup and clothing details up close – the kinds of details you can only see after the new product exhibitions or the two-day-later ‘Re-see’ news conference. For instance, when we were at the backstage of Diesel, we saw that they used old army boots for reference. The industrial romance showed their capable and experienced temperament. The nifty cotton ruffles softened the tough style. Embroidery, lace and other details embellished this style. The nude coloured clothing traced out a graceful city. In other words, it is very ‘Diesel’.

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The details of runway and backstage of Gucci

The atmosphere of the backstage at Christiano Burani was relatively relaxed. This season’s theme was ‘I Love You’. The main point of this fashion was bright colours and young spirit. It mixed 80s, 90s and modern day characteristics, inspiring the power of the freedom and the charm of sports. It gave me a feeling of a California surfer and Disco in the urban city. 

Fashion After Parties

After the show, we felt dazzled by all these supermodels at the party, such as Anna Cleveland, Marjan Jonkman, Fernanda Hin Lin Ly and more…drinking and dancing to celebrate the success of the fashion show. 

(从左至右)澳大利亚男演员Brenton Thwaites - 集团男女鞋履及皮革产品总监James Ferragamo先生 - 德国男模Johannes Huebl - 台湾男演员丁春诚 - 西班牙男模Andres Velencoso合影.jpg

From Left: Australian actor Brenton Thwaites、James Ferragamo、German model Johannes Huebl、Actor Ding Chuncheng from Taiwan China and Spanish model Andres Velencoso

It girls, bloggers, and we all surrounded the backstage, running to two enthusiastic and unrestrained designers, Dean and Dan Cate. They were with their selective models near the champagne dancing floor. We got there and took photos of them. We also interviewed the chief editor of Italian Vogue. Escaping from the bright strobe light and pressing media workers and photographers, I struggled to squeeze out of the crowd and took a few selfies, not a easy task under such circumstances!

Overall, no matter on the stage, backstage or the street corners, Millan Fashion Week is always full of vitality, luxury, technology, and new talent. The Italian old brand fashion houses strive to carry forward the history of tradition or keep up with the demand of the times. With the help of social media, bloggers, and It girls, it will create glory again. Whoever can have a race with time, lead the latest fashion of the show, then he can dominate contemporary consumers’ behavior. 

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Author: Yanie Yanson, Fashion Blogger 【Photography IVAN GRIANTI】

【Layouts Kyna CHEN】



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