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Lingual Space

Johnny WANG 2019-04-01 13:57

Fashion design is undoubtedly the best expression of designers’ ideas. However, when it comes to the design of show spaces, many designers also have different opinions. Compared to times when the modern fashion industry was in its nascency, this topic is more meaningful for discussion in the diversified global context.

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Miu Miu: Voicing Attitudes

We could hardly find a more “young girl-oriented” fashion house than Miu Miu. However, Miu Miu surprised us by presenting a young girl with a strong attitude towards life, and breaking the stereotype of “Lolita”. At a show space in the Perret Building, Paris, the fashion collection featured combat with black-and-white symbols and signs while the entire showroom was hung with enormous street art posters. Besides, the seats for the show were ordinary stools.

It is noteworthy that there are two visual installations in the show space. One of them is printed with “Miu Miu Type, an ABC of Actions, Behaviours and Comportment”, while the other showcases the complete collection of Miu Miu Type. These highly recognisable icons reinvent the “Miu Miu Language” to speak for the expressiveness and spontaneity of the fashion house.

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Salvatore Ferragamo: Echoes of Ideas

Speaking of the relationship between the fashion collection and its show space, decoration is not necessarily a key component. Take Salvatore Ferragamo’s 2018 FW show, for example: the layout and decoration are simple, but different sections are segmented by coloured lighting. As I put it, the style of the show space is in alignment with the design philosophy of the collection.

Now move our attention to the collection itself. From a certain perspective, the “contemporary” attitude of the design does not aim to create a tension between traditions and modern styles. Instead, designers attempt to diffuse the outline of traditions amid the modern air, through the eternal orientation – the functionality of fashion. Probably it’s the “moderate reformism” that makes the scene a simplistic, traditional but quite gentle one.

Valentino: Contrast of Time

Valentino FW 2018 Men’s show was placed in an 18th century vintage building. The façade of which is extremely complicated – carved with cameos of ancient European figures and decorative elements, like the radial pattern of the sun.

Surprisingly, in this vintage show space, the fashion collection on display is themed as “rebellion”, and tries to argue “the true rebellion is a state of mind, which is always confident and elegant.” This contrast indicates fashions challenging the show space. The show space, however, functions both as a container and the target of challenges.

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Prada: Deciphering Archives

Does fashion serve the only purpose to dress up our bodies? Prada says no. For Prada designers, clothing alone is not enough to express their ideas, so they find resorts in the show space. For the Prada FW 2018 Men’s and Women’s fashion show, AMO converts the depositories of Viale Ortles, Milan, into an oneiric and surreal archive, where the multifaceted essence of Prada comes to life, thus turning the warehouse into a venue that both speaks of Prada’s accumulated identities and its place within the contemporary. Inside the venue, the new fashion pieces, box installations and lucky emblems jump into eyes, and whisper a sort of implication to the audience.

【Layouts Hu Fangfang】


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