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Designers' Trips

Johnny WANG 2017-09-01 10:49

Fashion design is a way for its creators to implement their visions; it tracks and records the heartfelt passions of the designers.

Incomplete Aesthetics

This is a series of fashion design about incomplete aesthetics. If a designer treats his work as a piece of art, he would either choose to fully complete his work or deliberately leave something “undone”. Then the question comes: how to judge that a work has been finished? And who has the right to decide it? The question, undoubtedly, is the designer himself. Such thought gave birth to the Valentino series, which was inspired by the exhibition Unfinished: Thoughts Left Visible at the Met Breuer. 

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Valentino 2017 Spring/Summer Collection

A deliberately unfinished piece of work could be a poetic decision made by the designer, or simply pure chance. The design director Pierpaolo Piccioli the issue of what a designer could figure out in their brain. Picasso also advocated that an unfinished work would sustain its creative vitality. In this series, the expression of creativity leaves no trace but could be found everywhere. To this end, the designer adopted a pragmatic modular concept: shirts, casual overcoats, windbreakers and high-waists all applied the same fabric as of a set of uniform; unhemmed liners created layered effect; loose stitching could be seen in different styles as if carelessly neglected; animal pattern appliques were damaged and then repaired, while the English style embroideries created a sense of sportiness. Some odd parts in the design are not tailored, though. The designer still defined them as completed works, as a result of an artistic touch.

Memory Lane

British poet T. S. Eliot wrote: “We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time”. Gucci’s designs bring with them a strong touch of abstract literariness, and succeed in telling the imagined “trip down memory lane” inside the designer’s mind. As of the journey itself, starting it means exploring the local scenery with intensive attention. It may sound too abstract to understand, yet when you are looking back to the details of the ready-made collection, you would have an epiphany: every single piece of clothing is given brand-new meaning, just like a kaleidoscope full of patterns and symbols. Matching classic American icon Donald Duck with metal ornaments onto the woolen vest generates a strange meeting of childishness and aristocracy. Embroidered with flower pattern the silky fabrics give a touch of art and decadence. 

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Gucci 2017 Spring/Summer Collection

On the other hand, the formal suit style bumps with the pajama-like silky style, resulting in sharp contrast. The journey through fashion design is to a large extent about separation, abandonment, transformation, and movement. In a designer’s mind, it is an unexpected encounter. One needs to open their mind and accept all the possibilities to be fully involved in it.

Sculpture Walks

This is a tour of sculpture aesthetics. Burberry presented in its series the concept of “asymmetrical spatiality” from contemporary British art master Henry Moore. Moore is one of the most influential British artists in the 20th century, as well as a renowned sculpture master whose semi-abstract cast copper sculptures could be seen all over the world. Moore was born in Yorkshire, England, which also happens to be the birthplace of Burberry windbreakers. 

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Burberry 2017 Spring/Summer Collection

The imagery of the sculpture is very conspicuous throughout the collection. Inspired by the deep exploration of “hollow” art forms in Moore’s works, the collection is notable in the application of chord elements and irregular curves. Whatever the size or ratio, texture or colour, or even the general outline, each perspective is inspired by Henry Moore’s sculptures. The asymmetrical style exhibits in the catwalk collection presents its form, texture and handmade details all through the inspiration from the vivid stamping elements archived by the Henry Moore Foundation. Two delicate pairs of shoes became the centre of attention. One is a pair of ladies’ pointed end boots and the other is a pair of men’s asymmetrical lace-up brogues, and both originated from the curve shape and edges in Henry Moore’s sculptures.

Conscious Path

This collection by the designer Miuccia Prada is another experiment on her curiosity. After the inspirations of ‘wanderers’, ‘travellers’, the concept of travel returns to her works as the key point.Miuccia draws inspirations from various things among seasons. She kept updating herself, changing the design and almost never copied her past ideas. But this collection has the same idea ‘travel’ as the last one. Why did she choose this same idea as the key word of this collection? Moreover, it is not easy to combine fashion design with such an abstract concept because abstract design concepts may make the collection be too far away from the practical wear. And why did she do this once more?

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Prada 2017 Spring/Summer Collection

There must be some reasons. According to some journalists, she had such words in the backstage of the fashion week,” The past has beet the past and what I am thinking about is the present.” She may think that fashion needs to see the time era during which the fashion itself is there.

According to her, there is uncertainty in this time era, like in economy. Even Prada was influenced. Although some media made such comments, saying that the collection is colorful and the style is so leisure, the concept of travel in this collection, in fact, told some new stories. The models on runway look like adventurers on the journey that no one took before. The big bags for which Prada became famous in fashion industry appeared this time again. They clearly explained what practical wear should be. And the graphic on the pieces show the various destinations around the world.

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