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AW 17 Shanghai Fashion Week Diary

Johnny WANG 2018-08-21 11:12

Another season of Shanghai Fashion Week kicked off on April 7th, presenting local and international brands alike on three platforms: main tent at Xintiandi, Labelhood, and Green Code. Among them, XINTIANDI is presented directly by the Shanghai Fashion Week Committee and featured more of the established designers in a traditional runway setting. On the flip side, LABELHOOD represented a branch of SHFW that brought together emerging Chinese independent designers flashing creativity and youth culture, while GREEN CODE, a recent addition to SHFW family, concentrated on sustainable fashion and presented both young Chinese and international brands.


New Horizon for Ideas

GREEN CODE: a recent addition to the SHFW family that concentrates on sustainable fashion and presents young Chinese and international brands.

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【Layout Kyna CHEN】

C. J. YAO, one of the veterans at SHFW runway, went extreme with colour blocking, asymmetry, oversized styles and a totally crazy KFC collaboration over the last few seasons.

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Backstage of C.J.YAO 【Photography Ni Rui】

While still having the designer’s signature high-waist pants, A-line skirts and winter coats with shearling pockets, her AW17 collection has matured in clean lines and shapes; overall, it seemed toned down with more approachable and commercial look. No matter what direction CJ goes, she is always recognizable with her juxtaposed colours, bold cuts and strict silhouettes – and that’s what we love her for.

VEECO ZHAO, who pursues unity between the human body and garment design, managed to fiercely succeed in juxtaposing romanticism with avant-garde modernism.

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Close-up of VEECO ZHAO【Photography Maxim】

Boldly using amorous thick leather belts and spikes over fairytale like layered tulle mid-length skirts and slit ruffle flare pants, the designer achieved a strong modern look of today’s baroque girl. 

With fashion week allowing time and space travel in a matter of an hour, REINEREN took us all on an expedition to what made me think of Nairobi, Africa with their “Be Wild” slogan.

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Close-up of REINEREN【Photography Maxim】

Checkered suits, turtle neck sweaters, velvet pants and lacquered skirt prevailed in earthy brown, skylight blue and desert rustic yellow colours with a touch of light pink.

Speaking of travel, DANIEL WONG – who is notable for using vibrant prints with various fabric textures – presented his AW17 collection, “The Odyssey”, with the key message of life journey and discovery.

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Finale of DANIEL WONG【Photography Maxin】

Although mainly using five base colours of black, red, beige, white and grey, the designer incorporated it ingeniously with prints of historic world map, multi-texturing, and patching.

Another designer travelling, RICO LEE – a new fashion designer brand engaging in outdoor technology-based fashion – was set on a skiing tour escaping from polluted megapolis portrayed by models wearing gas respirators. High-tech materials application, pursuit of function and strengthening tailoring of looks in base red, white and olive green colours make the collection very commercial and wearable. 

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【Layout Kyna CHEN】

Once in a while every girl wants to drop all of her responsibilities and be a princess, and that’s what we got  at W by WENJUN show. “This is a princess” print with a golden crown was seen on free size wool sweaters and oversized velvet hoodies. Details like long lace sleeves, layers of flare ruffles and shiny silver and gold colours of pleated skirts were knowingly combined with toned down commercial looks to prevent princess cuteness overload and keep the garments highly wearable.


Another Path of LABELHOOD

The Institution of SHUSHU/TONG took everybody back to school in a classroom looking setting, with desks, chairs and strong flashlights to present its AW17 collection, which featured strong shoulder shirts, pleated skirts, and puff shoulder tops in asymmetrical lines. Classy colours of black & white, beige, grey, and red with accessories like thick leather belts reflected a young woman who doesn’t quite disobey the dress code but works her way around it to make it bold, strong, even slightly rebellious.

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【Layout Kyna CHEN】

Honey glazed blonde models at JONATHAN LIANG in floral designs gliding slowly on the runway by the bits of romantic music expressed the designer’s juxtaposing of the world of dreams with daily life.

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JONATHAN LIANG

Draping, layers, floral embroidery, semi-strong yet elegant ruffles were perfectly detailed on the mid-length dresses, flare pants and pleated skirts. Among all, dirty lilac cashmere sweater was my favorite. 

Hundreds of fax papers lying around the runway, violin music with voice-over and mostly black and white coloured collection got WMWM the ultimate minimalistic style of avant-garde and industrial combination.

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WMWM

Slightly oversized silhouette, layers, asymmetric long shirts, distressed knitwear, high-waist flare pants, atlas and ruffle details are the keywords of the brand’s AW17 collection.

Seems like FFIXXED STUDIOS took the bedrooms out to runway, and I’m not talking only about pyjamas. Here also goes quilt covers interpreted into skirts and coats and homey wool socks.

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Close-up of FFIXXED STUDIOS【Photography Ni Rui】

Music reflected the eighties mood which was a perfect setting for showcasing tweed skirts, checkered pattern jackets and pleated pants of the brand.

Now, if we are talking show, menswear designer HIUMAN would be one step ahead placing on a high rise a live golden statue in the middle on the room. The show firstly resembled the looks of Colonial period attire showing oversized puffy shoulders, high waist pants with breeches ending at the knee and worn with stockings, checkered long tweed blazers, shiny velvet flare pants, waist and sleeve ruffles.

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Close-up of HIUMAN【Photography Maxim】

Later, with a sudden change in music playing “Run Boy Run” by Wood Kid it felt like a transformation from an old era into the current days where designs got cleaner, details simpler, and materials lighter. 


About The Author

Alicia Shi, Aya Aspan and Rui Cheng at VEECO ZHAO show by Maxim vdn.jpg

【Photography Maxim】

Management specialist with work background in digital communication, publishing, public relations and creative production. Aya writes about her  experiences inside the industry and shares  her insights at www.ayaaspan.com,  meanwhile acting as a consultant and  contributing editor to a number of print  and online magazines.



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